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	<title>Comments for Retrotek » Blog</title>
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	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:52:58 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Helios 44M Aperture A/M Repair by falcoln0014</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/118/comment-page-1#comment-7714</link>
		<dc:creator>falcoln0014</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:52:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=118#comment-7714</guid>
		<description>Searching through various forums yielded this - http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByKeyword.aspx?word=bearings

I&#039;m not sure the exact size you would need (I know my Pentax lenses use 1mm to 1.2mm), but at a dollar a pack you could just pickup one of each size and be covered.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Searching through various forums yielded this &#8211; <a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByKeyword.aspx?word=bearings" rel="nofollow">http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByKeyword.aspx?word=bearings</a></p>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure the exact size you would need (I know my Pentax lenses use 1mm to 1.2mm), but at a dollar a pack you could just pickup one of each size and be covered.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by falcoln0014</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-7713</link>
		<dc:creator>falcoln0014</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-7713</guid>
		<description>Try firing your shutter indoors and listen to the speed that it fires. Afterward, take it outside and point it toward the sun, fire it, and listen to see if it fires much faster. It should be pretty easy to tell if it still works.

Providing the selenium cell still functions at the same speed it was designed at you would be best using 3200 film. You could also shoot 800, 1600, etc and push process to 3200. The selenium cell is calibrated to operate the shutter based on ISO 3000 sensitivity, but since it&#039;s old its probably a bit slower now. I would think you could test the sensitivity by doing a test similar to the one I used to get my shutter speeds, only in this case you would need a digital camera too. You could aim both cameras at the same light source and capture data from the J66. That would give you a definite shutter speed for a given light source and you could adjust the ISO on your digital until you had a similar shutter speed with correct exposure. You should then have a pretty good idea of the actual sensitivity of your J66 cell.

I believe by default the shutter goes to the slowest speed possible. From what I understand the selenium cell voltage drives the needle which directly controls air flow from the pneumatic piston. As the voltage climbs the shutter speed increases proportionately.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Try firing your shutter indoors and listen to the speed that it fires. Afterward, take it outside and point it toward the sun, fire it, and listen to see if it fires much faster. It should be pretty easy to tell if it still works.</p>
<p>Providing the selenium cell still functions at the same speed it was designed at you would be best using 3200 film. You could also shoot 800, 1600, etc and push process to 3200. The selenium cell is calibrated to operate the shutter based on ISO 3000 sensitivity, but since it&#8217;s old its probably a bit slower now. I would think you could test the sensitivity by doing a test similar to the one I used to get my shutter speeds, only in this case you would need a digital camera too. You could aim both cameras at the same light source and capture data from the J66. That would give you a definite shutter speed for a given light source and you could adjust the ISO on your digital until you had a similar shutter speed with correct exposure. You should then have a pretty good idea of the actual sensitivity of your J66 cell.</p>
<p>I believe by default the shutter goes to the slowest speed possible. From what I understand the selenium cell voltage drives the needle which directly controls air flow from the pneumatic piston. As the voltage climbs the shutter speed increases proportionately.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Helios 44M Aperture A/M Repair by jun</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/118/comment-page-1#comment-6985</link>
		<dc:creator>jun</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Jan 2011 00:10:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=118#comment-6985</guid>
		<description>hi
i acidebtally lost those very small bearings when i was cleaning my rokkor lens. by any chance do you know where to get new ones? thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi<br />
i acidebtally lost those very small bearings when i was cleaning my rokkor lens. by any chance do you know where to get new ones? thanks.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by Joe</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-6479</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jan 2011 23:43:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-6479</guid>
		<description>Thank you for this good howto. I would like to do this conversion, but i have some questions: If i leave the selium cell system untouched (I think its no more working afer 50 years) what is the standard shutter speed used by the camera? 

Its made for 3000 Film, how can it works with 100 or 400 film? Should i use Delta 3200? Thank you, Joe</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you for this good howto. I would like to do this conversion, but i have some questions: If i leave the selium cell system untouched (I think its no more working afer 50 years) what is the standard shutter speed used by the camera? </p>
<p>Its made for 3000 Film, how can it works with 100 or 400 film? Should i use Delta 3200? Thank you, Joe</p>
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		<title>Comment on Adjusting and Cleaning Focus on Helios 44M by falcoln0014</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/140/comment-page-1#comment-5126</link>
		<dc:creator>falcoln0014</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Oct 2010 20:52:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=140#comment-5126</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve never had the privilege of dismantling a 44M-4. I&#039;ll see about acquiring a 44M-4 and possibly a 44M-6 for research. 

From the research I&#039;ve done prior to purchasing my set of 44m&#039;s I would guess there is little difference. The spring controlling the aperture mechanism should be safe to remove as long as you put it back later. If you can&#039;t access it from the rear of the lens it may be necessary to do so from the front. You may even have to remove the &#039;guts&#039; from the lens housing.

If I can get my hands on a model 44M-4 I&#039;ll give it a go.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve never had the privilege of dismantling a 44M-4. I&#8217;ll see about acquiring a 44M-4 and possibly a 44M-6 for research. </p>
<p>From the research I&#8217;ve done prior to purchasing my set of 44m&#8217;s I would guess there is little difference. The spring controlling the aperture mechanism should be safe to remove as long as you put it back later. If you can&#8217;t access it from the rear of the lens it may be necessary to do so from the front. You may even have to remove the &#8216;guts&#8217; from the lens housing.</p>
<p>If I can get my hands on a model 44M-4 I&#8217;ll give it a go.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Adjusting and Cleaning Focus on Helios 44M by Virgil</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/140/comment-page-1#comment-4475</link>
		<dc:creator>Virgil</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:20:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=140#comment-4475</guid>
		<description>Just wondering- I have a 44M-4, with the auto aperture pin (not the preset version)- have you ever  disassembled the M-4 version?  I had removed the backplate and aperture ring, then removed 3 screws holding on the aperture control mechanism, but wasn&#039;t able to see how the remove this plate to continue disassembly, since there seems to be a spring connected underneath the plate that controls the aperture open/close mechanism, so I bailed (didn&#039;t want to ruin my $10 find!).

thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just wondering- I have a 44M-4, with the auto aperture pin (not the preset version)- have you ever  disassembled the M-4 version?  I had removed the backplate and aperture ring, then removed 3 screws holding on the aperture control mechanism, but wasn&#8217;t able to see how the remove this plate to continue disassembly, since there seems to be a spring connected underneath the plate that controls the aperture open/close mechanism, so I bailed (didn&#8217;t want to ruin my $10 find!).</p>
<p>thanks!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by Tweets that mention Psychotic Studios » Blog Archive » Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera -- Topsy.com</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-2721</link>
		<dc:creator>Tweets that mention Psychotic Studios » Blog Archive » Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera -- Topsy.com</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:32:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-2721</guid>
		<description>[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by canon eos rebel. canon eos rebel said: Psychotic Studios » Blog Archive » Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully ...: This camera was from one of the local flea ... http://bit.ly/bR4DUi [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by canon eos rebel. canon eos rebel said: Psychotic Studios » Blog Archive » Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully &#8230;: This camera was from one of the local flea &#8230; <a href="http://bit.ly/bR4DUi" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/bR4DUi</a> [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by Psychotic Studios &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Agfa Isolette 1 Tricks</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-2647</link>
		<dc:creator>Psychotic Studios &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Agfa Isolette 1 Tricks</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 05:29:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-2647</guid>
		<description>[...] Blog Articles:  Polaroid J66 Mod Coppermine Batch Wordpress Comments Wordpress Asahi Super-Takumar Photos: Concerts Digital Lens [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Blog Articles:  Polaroid J66 Mod Coppermine Batch WordPress Comments WordPress Asahi Super-Takumar Photos: Concerts Digital Lens [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by falcoln0014</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-2606</link>
		<dc:creator>falcoln0014</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Apr 2010 04:34:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-2606</guid>
		<description>We actually shoot traditional B&amp;W film and develop it in a sink. The main problem you would run into getting it developed somewhere is getting your film back onto a roll and light tight. What we do after shooting the J610 is unload the film in a darkroom from the camera into a light safe canister for development. You can find plenty of tutorials on DIY B&amp;W film development on Google if you&#039;ve never done it before.

We&#039;ve also shot and developed C41 color in the J610, but would not recommend it to someone that isn&#039;t familiar with the traditional B&amp;W process. It requires very precise control of the development temperature (in the neighborhood of 105F within a few degrees), or the results can be less than desirable.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We actually shoot traditional B&amp;W film and develop it in a sink. The main problem you would run into getting it developed somewhere is getting your film back onto a roll and light tight. What we do after shooting the J610 is unload the film in a darkroom from the camera into a light safe canister for development. You can find plenty of tutorials on DIY B&amp;W film development on Google if you&#8217;ve never done it before.</p>
<p>We&#8217;ve also shot and developed C41 color in the J610, but would not recommend it to someone that isn&#8217;t familiar with the traditional B&amp;W process. It requires very precise control of the development temperature (in the neighborhood of 105F within a few degrees), or the results can be less than desirable.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Polaroid J66 to J610 120 Fully Manual Camera by cade</title>
		<link>http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/498/comment-page-1#comment-2592</link>
		<dc:creator>cade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:20:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/?p=498#comment-2592</guid>
		<description>Hey i like this conversion, it looks like the easiest so far.  But im wondering, How do you get the roll of film developed? I guess you take it to the photo shop at Wal-Mart?  I know originally this camera took film that developed with light.  I just acquired a J66 but Im not real sure if I can convert it or not.  Please help me out, 
Thanks
Cade</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey i like this conversion, it looks like the easiest so far.  But im wondering, How do you get the roll of film developed? I guess you take it to the photo shop at Wal-Mart?  I know originally this camera took film that developed with light.  I just acquired a J66 but Im not real sure if I can convert it or not.  Please help me out,<br />
Thanks<br />
Cade</p>
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